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MG TD TF 1500 - Peddle box


I have searched the archives for some helpful hints on how to tackle replacing the bushings on the brake and clutch peddles but can only find words that state this is the worst job there is in doing a rebuild. I am down to the frame and thought I would do this first and get it out of the way. Is there a write-up somewhere that someone can point me to or if anyone has any helpful hints on doing this they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any info.

John
John

John, do you mean down to the bare frame? It is pretty easy in that state. You may want to dig around on the archives- I'm sure there is stuff written. If not, I'll try to describe later today or Friday the best I can. George
George Butz

John,

If you do a search in the archives, try *pedal* instead of *peddle*.

Gene
Gene Gillam

John,
I agree with George,,, if you are down to the frame, it's a lot easier than when the car is all together.

SPW
Steve Wincze

.....now that I have my head out from the 'dark warm place where the sun doesn't shine' and I use the correct spelling of PEDAL I find a lot of info in the archives. Never could spell worph a damn - the results of going to a three room school house with seven grades in it - at least that is my excuse. Gene, thanks for the spelling leason. Thanks for the pictures Steve. I am in fact down to the bare frame so maybe it won't be such a bad job... John
John Ostergren

John
If you do not have a copy of "The Complete mg td Restoration Manual by Horst Schach" you should get one. On page 19 and 20 he explains how to restore the pedal box. It is quite simple with the tub off the frame, just follow Horst's instructions. I believe that you can get this manual/ book through the New England MGT Register and at Moss Motors. If you are doing a full restoration this is one of the best books you could buy. It has everything from body work and paint to engine rebuilds, upholstery work, top installation etc. Hope this helps,John
John

John,

How lucky can one get!! Trying to do this job, lying on a cold floor and removing/pressing in bushings in a black cavity, is a nasty job and as has been described, as “probably the worst job there is”.

The problem comes from the lubricant being squeezed out; and the surface is exposed directly - metal-to-metal and soon wears.

Faced with that need some 30 years ago and at the time, being in my youthful 40s, I decided to do the job ONCE and do it properly. I have never regretted having done it properly and only once!

Back in the 1970's someone put an article in the TSO as follows ... First, make a drift that can be used to drive out the old bushings, and similarly, used to install the new ones. (note: I will be happy to lend mine to anyone interested - “only used once”!) That having been done, take a new pedal shaft, and, using a fresh, sharp small triangular file, inscribe by hand, at least two spiral grooves running the full length of the shaft. I put about 2 turns in the spirals, making them abt. .05" deep ... deep enough to allow the lubricant to flow. Make sure there are no rough edges. I suppose if one had the means, this could all be done on a lathe.

Now generously hand-lubricate both surfaces (inner and outer) of the new bushings with MOS² and press them in with the mandrel (drift). And too, generously hand-lubricate the shaft and put it aside.

In reassembling, keep stuff in order, and clean/test fit outside the box. Make sure all of the washers/spacers are in exactly the correct order- if not the arm hits on the cover plate and you start over. The clutch arm pinch bolt must be installed last, as it fits in an indentation in the shaft

Just make sure the clutch and brake pedal arms slide easily over the shaft. Make sure you have them in the correct order. Place the key in the notch, and carefully wiggle it together, insert the bolt, nut w/lock-washer, etc. Make sure that the grease fitting is clean (or new) and not blocked.

Lastly, attach the brake pedal spring - a murderous job when lying on the floor, but an absolute snap with a bare chassis.

I keep one small grease-gun filled with MOS² and lubricate the shaft yearly. In 30 years, the only wear I get is from the barrel pins, and the brake/pedal shaft has not worn at all.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A. Clark

John - Here is a picture of the cross filing and the drive mandrel that Gord mentions in his posting. The mandrel and the cross filing was in a tech article wrtten many years ago by Bob Grunau of the Ontario Chapter of the New England MG T Register and who is the author of many excellent tech tips.

Additionally, here is another good tip posted here by Gene (was that our own Gene Gillam?):

I finished the job to day and decided on several other changes. I drilled each of the holes in the pedal shaft ALL of the way through the shaft, and did the same at 2.5 inches from the end with the grease fitting. Then to ensure that I could get all of the filings out of the interior of the shaft, I drilled through the closed end of the shaft where the clutch lever is welded to it. Then I tapped the end for a new grease fitting after flushing the shaft interior. The new grease fitting clears the pedal box door and guarantees that I can get grease to that pesky brake pedal bushing. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

I recall my new shaft was lacking any grease hole at all for one of the bushings- don't remember which one,so I drilled that, and scribed more or less as above as well. The arm on the new shaft was angled out (or a bit too thick), so I had to grind it slightly thinner to keep it from rubbing on the box cover. George
George Butz

John - I do have Schach's restoration manual.

Gordon & Dave thanks for all that good info. It was no problem at all getting things out. The pedal shaft and frame bushings show very little wear. Brake pedal bushing needs to be replaced. This will be the first thing I put back together once I have the frame cleaned up and painted.... John
John O

Thats the right order to re install... think there must have been a man (Nigel?) at the start of the assembly line and the rest of the car was built around it!!!!
gblawson (gordon)- TD#27667

I have always found that when removing or installing a bushing using a mandrel and hammer, something (usually the bushing) gets messed up. I always use a press or vise to remove or install bushings. It is much easier to control the amount of movement. Using the press causes zero damage, unless the wrong bushing is being used.
John Masters

"It was no problem at all getting things out" Now that's a first! I have never heard anyone say that that job was no problem at all. John, can I call on you the next time I have a difficult job to do :)

Congratulation on getting that job done with a minimum of fuss. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

This thread was discussed between 17/01/2008 and 20/01/2008

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